Turris Omnia internal fuse?

I have an older Omina that’s been in a drawer for a while. It stopped working a while back, possibly after being hit with a higher voltage that it should (48v PoE power supply possibly). No blinky lights at all with any appropriate 12v power supply. No obvious scorch marks on the board. I looked at it again & saw a removable component next to the power socket. When I pull it out I get an open circuit with the multi-meter. I’m assuming it’s a fuse, hopefully just a blown fuse & nothing else.

I think it’s labeled “IE5A” or something, but cant read the tiny print well. Is this a fuse? If so, what is a replacement I can find. Some googling has me thinking https://www.amazon.com/Acting-Surface-Mount-2-69mmx-2-69mm/dp/B085WSHMCH/?th=1 is what I need.

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Yes, it is 5A fuse in the 2410 (6125 metric) SMD package, here is manufacturers datasheet: 476005 - Littelfuse

The amazon listing you found seems correct.

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Got the new fuse in, but still nothing.

Dug up https://wiki.turris.cz/_media/rtrom01-schema.pdf. Poked between COTP121 & ground. Get about 12v when the fuse is out, but less than 3v when I put the fuse in. Weird low ohm readings between positive & ground poking at things with the multimeter when nothing is plugged in. Looks like something in deeper is shorted out. I’m up against my electronics debugging limits. I may be able to resolder a smd component or 2 if I could find the failure point, but probably gonna toss it back in the closet.

Use your meter, set it for continuity testing and check the TVS diode located below DC barell. It is black rectangle with white stripe on the left.
Search for D15 or SMBJ12A in the schematics.


As an alternative, you can remove that component and verify the router by connecting the PSU. It should start.


Desoldered D15 & got 0 ohms each direction with the meter. Plugged in 12v & saw nicely blinking LEDs for the first time in a long time.

Ordering a few extra diodes & will put one in when I get it. Thanks for the help.


New diodes showed up today. Soldered them in & everything still works.

Thanks again for the help.


Can you please mark this thread as being resolved?

Done. (+extra characters)

Yup that’s the beauty of open source hardware.
I once managed to plug my speaker’s PSU in the Omnia (36V, I think - some Creative T40s). It didn’t die instantly, but it did die quickly.
Pulled up the schematic, figured with the multimeter that the Zener was fried in the input circuit, removed & replaced that (the electrolitic cap too, just to be sure). Everything worked again, and it’s been working just fine since 2020 when this happened.

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