Thanks for the detailed explanations, bakon!
I am about to order thermal pads to do the mod and am a bit confused about the 3mm of thermal pads you are talking about: should I understand that there originally is:
a 2mm pad on the bottom of the aluminum and 1mm pad on top?
I would like to experiment with heatsinks but most difficult task is to remove ALU cube from processor.
In my case ALU cube is fixed on processor by very slim thermal tape or glue so it is not possible to insert any tool between processor and cube. I am affraid to try turn by cube.
Has somebody some tested smart method how to remove ALU cube from processor?
run the router for a short while to get the alu block warm. i guess that would loosen up the stock thermal pad/tape. then i did a very gentle twist and it got loose easily. obviously you dont want to force.
@backon thanks! I exactly followed your really nice instructions and got -20°C from â80-95°C down to â60-75°C (idle-loaded).
Want to add a couple of comments:
my device hasnât 3mm pad between the âcubeâ and CPU, but some kind of thermoglue was used. Which means that the âcubeâ wasnât touching the top part of the chasis.
3mm is slightly too much. I used Arctic Cooling Thermal Pad, but the smaller one (ACTPD00002A) as well and three layers (3mm) causes top half of the router to close hardly. Iâd say itâs about 2.3-2.5mm. But I think the small pressure is not a problem until you put something on the top (or your cat would sit on it)
After that modification you must be really careful when opening the box â in my case, the âcubeâ always appear to be attached to the cover so it can drop down and damage the board.
Does it really matter when full load of CPU causes minimal difference?
Or are we going to get significantly longer lifetime if we optimize temperature on CPU?
Does it really matter when full load of CPU causes minimal difference?
For me, yes. My router goes 99% of time on idle load.
we going to get significantly longer lifetime if we optimize temperature on CPU
Opinions differs. I personally think, yes (you can see that on post above). But its just my âcommon senseâ guess. I think lower temperatures -> longer lifetime in general. 90°C is quite high for me
since I got my Turris Omnia this week Iâm interested if anyone did find a solution to get the Sytem Temperature via SNMP to show in a LibreNMS Monitoring System.
Unfortunately the script solution provided by idpitt above doesnât get the sensor to show up in LibreNMS (although it does show if I query the UCD-SNMP-MIB::extTable).
Hi,
I would like to just share my CPU heatsink modification. The target was to stay with passive cooling as I donât like fan noise and dust.
Temperature after modification is:
IDLE temperature is 56°C
after 20 minutes of CPU stress I reached max. 72°C
Although running at 70C-80C seems to be perfectly legit according to the Armada 38x specs as the chipâs operating temperature is up to 105C, Iâve tried to apply the solution recommended by @backon earlier in this thread just to see the effect.
Removing the cube was really easy as the original thermal tape didnât hold it too strong, it was just sufficient to push the cube gently sideways. The tape remained completely attached to the cube, which made itâs removal with a screwdriver and alcohol really simple.
Then, Iâve cut two 20x20x1.5mm squares from the Arctic pad and applied one to the bottom and the other to the top of the aluminium cube.
Finally, Iâve attached the cover back and made sure it sticks to the pad by pressing on the cover in the place where the cooling cube touches the cover.
The whole thing was done in a few minutes.
The results are surprisingly good, my Omniaâs temp dropped from the usual 74C to 66C.
This is 8C (~10%) improvement just by applying the pad worth a few dollars. Neat!